In order to make it I picked up the stitches from the front that I had previously saved on the spare needle, making sure I finished at the feather end of the piece. On the next row I cast off enough stitches to take me roughly to the centre of the feather (25 stitches in my case), then knitted to the neck end of the row.
Next row: Cast off 5 stitches knit to bottom end of row. (77 sts for me)
Knit three more full rows.
You should now be at the neck end of the row.
Begin shaping in the same short row way as the sleeves were knitted i.e. :-
Knit 5, turn double stitch and knit back to neck edge
Knit to double stitch, knit 5 more stitches, turn double stitch and knit back to neck edge
Continue adding 5 more stitches and turning until you reach the last seven stitches, turn double stitch and knit back to neck edge.
Now knit 3 double rows across all stitches ending at neck edge. This is the centre of the insert, more rows can be added here if needed.
Knit to last 7 stitches, turn and knit to neck edge
Knit to 5 stitches before double stitch, turn and knit to neck edge.
Continue in this way, leaving 5 stitches each time until you reach the last five, knit to neck edge
Knit two double rows then loosely cast off.
I then picked up 77 stitches from the cast on on the other front side and repeated the pattern. It isn't necessary to knit one on each side but I wanted the extra warmth from the double breast portion as this is going to be worn as a coat.
Next, and last, part to do is the collar.
Strange photo showing the two finished lapels:-
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